Category Archives: THj Swell reports

a whimsical look at the weather

Soooo bored

Are you one with your surfboard? synchronised and pure of thought? in unison seeking waves, hunting and gathering wave counts or stuck in a perpetual haze of youth, sunsets and post surf drinks?

Well thats not me either….i wish i was more one with my board then perhaps together we could do small great things on waves of substance majestically … sorry drifting off…

I think what makes people surf or swim with a fervour that’s akin to a rather large cult is very interesting and cuts deep into how we connect as humans to each other and to our planet.

Humour, friendship and that oceanic feeling , shared or alone out there in the wildness of the ocean.

So I think of this cartoon in two ways 1. you are of the chosen few who become one with their boards or 2. you are just bored, bored with life, with the sameness of the same old surf stories being oushed around, bored with predictability.

If its no. 2 find some mates and hit the water no matter what state its in (but be safe).

xthj

Tarhairedjack Surf Report 27072018

The weather has not been kind to the coastline or surfers recently here in the south west of Western Australia. On Monday the Bay beach was full of slippery boulders but yesterday it was a photographic sandy inlet!! I could still hear the large ankle killing boulders rolling with the surge under the water and the noise freaks me out- I paddle quite fast ….

        ‘I am in the habit of going to sea’ Herman Melville

      Tarhairedjack is my nickname. I love it because it reminds me of freedom on big seas, unruly hair (which i have) and the places and spaces I play where my imagination runs away.

When I was at university I sailed on a tall ship called the Leeuwin every chance I could, bunny hopping up and down the Western Australian coastline in 2 week legs for over two years in holiday breaks. I had a very understanding boss at the time.

And I got the name from another sailor. I had the task of ‘tarring the lines’ and ‘caulking’ for the tall ship the Endeavour Replica whilst she was being built in Fremantle, Western Australia and this involved lots of rope and pots of black tar. No matter how hard i tried my hair was always dipping into the pots and i was messy. I still am and I still love black lines and paint brushes.